aprile 28, 2012

Note sparse sull'accettazione dei sapori

Molto spesso, troppo in verità, ascolto e leggo triti argomenti e vetere nostalgie per le cucine della mamma, della nonna, della zia. L'apice dell'argomentazioni lo si raggiunge su quanto la cucina contemporanea sia lontana dal palato e dal gusto degli esseri normali. 
Bisogna studiare la cucina contemporanea e bisogna mangiarla per capirla, quindi andare nei ristoranti dove si fa quel tipo di cucina. Bisogna investire del denaro per conoscerla e apprezzarla. Stesso discorso vale per l'arte contemporanea. Bisogna studiarla e bisogna andare a svariate mostre prima di comprenderla. Stesso discorso per la moda e per la musica.
Mettiamola giù così: il palato è un muscolo e bisogna allenarlo. Uguale per il naso, per gli occhi e per l'udito.  In altri termini i nostri sensi devono essere allenati quotidianamente per razionalizzare la realtà e accettarla. La cucina è il prodotto geografico e culturale e scientifico di un territorio, di un popolo e di una cultura. Pensare che si possa capire una cucina diversa dalla propria la prima volta che la si assaggia, è di fatto impossibile. Il palato non è abituato a capire e conoscere le novità.  Il naso, gli occhi e la lingua non sono capaci da subito di catalogare nuove informazioni, bisogna che ci sia un periodo di apprendimento e di allenamento. Questo libro spiega bene, nei limiti dell'attuale conoscenza scientifica, cosa ci capita quando mangiamo. Ho scoperto che le papille gustative si rinnovano ogni 15 giorni. E molto spesso capita che quello che avevamo provato l'anno prima e c'era piaciuto, l'anno dopo non ci piace più. Motivo? Non si sa. 
Quando si comincia a viaggiare si scoprono varietà quasi infinite di coltivazione di uno stesso ortaggio. E la mancanza di conoscenza delle variabili geografiche che diventano variabili culturali non ci aiuta di fatto a capire le altre cucine. Si dà per scontato che nessuno arriva in un posto lontanissimo da casa pensando di mangiare i cibi a cui è abituato. Questo pensiero è di un'enorme presunzione. In genere, e vale per tutti gli umani, c'è un'enorme difficoltà ad accettare il gusto degli altri. Se uno è abituato a mangiare salato e piccantissimo dopo una settimana ha una necessità disperata di immettere nel proprio corpo una serie di sostanze di cui "crede" aver bisogno e di fatto ne ha bisogno. Vale per il caso inverso. Se si ha un palato orientato a dei gusti blandi e freschi dopo una settimana di cucina forte e speziata il corpo comincia a soffrire. E non è solo una sofferenza per la mancanza di sapori conosciuti, è un rifiuto "psicologico", è proprio il cervello che reagisce alla mancanza di una serie di vitamine, proteine e carboidrati ricorrenti. Perché? Anche quello non si è ben capito e si stanno facendo delle ricerche in merito. Il nostro cervello in altre parole è orientato fin da bambino a una serie di sapori, si integra nella geografia e nella cultura in cui vive quotidianamente. E anche se ci definiamo la specie onnivora per eccellenza, in realtà non lo siamo, esistono dei tabù culturali e religiosi che ci contraddistinguono. E nessun essere umano mangia tutto tutto. 
L'estraniamento che l'essere umano prova quando va in un altro posto parte dal cibo, dal fatto che si assaggiano sapori sconosciuti e magari molto lontani dai propri. E se rimane a lungo lontano dalla propria madre patria, inizia il dramma, in una sorta di rivalsa e di ricerca delle radici per il rimpianto per sapori persi e  comincia a parlare della cucina della mamma, della zia e della nonna, flagellandosi di ricordi e nostalgia. La non-accettazione dell'estraniamento e la non-integrazione in una geografia diversa conducono alla ricreazione del primo fattore perso: il cibo, in virtù del fatto che il proprio è sempre meglio di quello degli altri. La ricostruzione della propria cucina in un ambiente ostile, lontano da casa senza le materie prime, portano a rifare una cucina avversa al territorio. Insomma l'eterna tendenza a ricreare il proprio ambiente benché lontani da casa. Accade sempre  che invece in patria, quella stessa cucina subisce una totale evoluzione. 
C'è poi un altro fattore da tenere a mente: la memoria è labile, esiste una memoria che ricostruisce ricordi falsi e rimpiazza quelli persi. 
E poi c'è l'alta cucina o fine-dining, come si definisce all'estero. La difficoltà degli chef che fanno alta cucina è far apprezzare quello che stanno proponendo. Molti di loro infatti vanno al tavolo e spiegano il piatto. La prima reazione da parte del cliente normale è sentirsi imbarazzato, la seconda è quella di essere ritornato a scuola e provare disagio, la terza è sgomento per il solo fatto che bisogna reimpostare una categoria di pensiero che è quello dell'abitudine. Cosa c'è di più normale e di più famigliare nel mangiare il proprio cibo? Un essere normale, non abituato ad andare a mangiare l'alta cucina, non solo non la capisce ma ne esce straniato e disturbato. "La trattoria della Gina mi dà un piatto di pasta fatto come dio comanda, non 'sta roba che non si capisce niente e ti lascia anche la fame" è in genere il commento del 90% delle persone che s'avvicinano per la prima volta all'alta cucina. 
Bisogna aprire poi un altro discorso di quanto la dimensione estetica sia diventata importante nella presentazione del cibo. Vale per tutte le cucine che non appartengono più a quella che io definisco "la cucina del sostentamento". Quindi l'impatto visivo della presentazione del piatto ha molto a che vedere con la conoscenza delle ultime correnti proposte dagli chef di fama. Che non lo sono perché pagano qualcuno, lo sono perché scoprono, inventano e creano nuovi modi di costruire matericamente il cibo sulla superficie del piatto. Assemblare gli alimenti, tagliarli, cuocerli, insaporirli e bilanciarli appartiene alla scienza e all'artigianato, metterli sul piatto alla conoscenza di tecniche artistiche (colori e forme). 
Si continua a dire che la cucina è arte. Diciamo che la cucina sparisce mentre l'arte rimane. Per dire.

Etichette:

81 Comments:

Anonymous armarobi said...

Si`, sparisce. E piu` lavori bene, piu` scompare. Non riusciro` mai ad abituarmi..

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Beh e' un'arte che non punta all'eternita', ma non e' detto che sia necessariamente negativo. D'altronde sulla definizione di arte son piene le pagine di tutti i blog del mondo, inutile parlarne.
La cucina sicuramente genera un'emozione, lascia un ricordo, produce uno o piu' cambiamenti- fisici e non- influenza gli stati d'animo etc etc. quindi se non e' arte, e' un Brand.

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